David Lama – High Spirits in Nepal

David Lama – High Spirits in Nepal

September 11, 2019 37 By William Hollis


Overnight we had decided to stake everything
on one card and to go full throttle. One of the main reasons for coming to Nepal
was that it’s the country my dad comes from. Moreover, Lunag Ri as a mountain fascinated me. It’s only been a few years
that there is a permit to climb Lunag Ri. That is surely one reason why it is still unclimbed. Although some strong teams have attempted it and they didn’t make it. So it is certainly not easy and the technical
difficulties should not be underestimated. On the first day everything went really well from the start. There were a few demanding pitches. Especially the first one was a loose and icy chimney,
really tough to climb but it all came together perfectly,
and we were really fast. We have one day of perfect weather
and want to use it. After that, the wind will pick up. We want to stake everything on one card
and just try. We will go full throttle, leave our bivy gear behind
and try to reach the summit with a light pack. On the ridge, the snow conditions were terrible
for a few pitches and we found no ice. We had to do 100 meter pitches. The first climbs the full length of the rope,
and then the second follows while the first continues. That way both climb simultaneously
and one climber needs to be right of the cornice, and one climber needs to be left of the cornice. In case someone falls you want each one on a
different side so the ridge is the protection. When we saw how horrendously steep the
upper headwall below the summit is, we realized our chances of success
were pretty slim. Of course I wish that I had made it to the summit, but I am also not overly disappointed
that we didn’t make it, because I know we got as high as possible
and gave our best. We pushed as hard as possible towards the top.